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JAVA RIVER
Sustainable Community Cafe

Order natural agricultural products, find out what there is to do and see in West Central Minnesota or just stop for a cup of coffee and a chat with the Pat and Mary Moore


    Java River: A new brew

Coffee house hopes to stir storefront revolution

The new coffee house is already a tourist spot, drawing customers from out of town, and pleasing local coffee drinkers, too.

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Mary Moore holds up an offering of fresh-brewed gourmet coffee at Java River in downtown Montevideo. Along wit husband Patrick, the Moores aim to do far more than intro duce the heartland to the luxury of gourmet coffee. The coffee house also features a computer kiosk, linking customer directly to sustainable farms and their produce.


From a railroad depot in North Redwood, Richard W. Sears launched a revolution in the way America buys its goods.

Patrick and Mary Moore see no reason why they can't start the next revolution from downtown Montevideo.

The difference is, the Moores are starting theirs in good taste.

They also have much different aspirations for the Main Streets of rural America than Sears, the founder of mail order catalogues, did.

First, the matter of good taste: The Java River coffee house the Moores opened this month brings the luxury of gourmet brewed coffee to a heartland more familiar with stuff that tastes like it dripped out of the crankcase.

"Thank you so much for opening a coffee house," local customers repeat mantra-like after their first visits, said Mary.

"Ah, civilization," one Washington state visitor told the Moores after discovering their coffee house by accident.

She'd  been spending the week visiting relatives in western Yellow Medicine County, and hadn't been able to find a cup of coffee like the kind a fellow by the name of Starbuck serves her back home.

But it's not at Starbuck's that the Moores are aiming their sights.

"Ah, civilization," one Washington state visitor told the Moores after discovering their coffee house by accident.

Their real goal is to lead the change in the way America buys its agricultural products, and ultimately, produces them.

The Moores' are convinced that Americans care not only about the quality of the food they buy, but the manner in which it is produced.

Given the choice, they say, Americans will buy goods from farms using sustainable agricultural practices. They produce food in ways that are beneficial to the environment, and to the Main Streets of the small towns they call home, explained Patrick.

His role is to link customer and producer together.

He's replaced the Sears mail order catalogue with a computer kiosk in the corner of his coffee house. With a touch of their fingers, patrons have immediate access to a collection of sustainable farms in the Montevideo area willing to sell their produce directly to consumers.

Touch the screen, and the people behind places like the "Moonstone Farm" come to life in picture and word on the computer screen.

Farm owners Rick Handeen and Audrey Arner of rural Montevideo describe how their rotational grazing practices produce tasty beef while reducing erosion in the Minnesota River valley.

Touch the "Pastures a Plenty Farm" icon, and Jim and LeeAnn Van Der Pol of rural Kerkhoven explain how they turn out of pork chops by allowing their hogs to graze in a pasture lined with bluebird houses.

Customers can order the products directly from these and other featured farms.

"Social marketing," is what the Moores call this approach to linking customer and producer.

They are not alone. A couple of fellows by the names of Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield brought the same philosophy to


the business of selling ice cream,

They set out to make money by marketing their values, said Patrick.

The Moores aim to do the same. They also know better than to confuse good intentions with business realities.

Reality No. 1 is to know the market. Marketing surveys show that 25 percent of Americans want to buy sustainable farm produce, according to Patrick.

Only two to three percent of them are able to do so, he said.

Of course, it will take more than a kiosk in a coffee house to reach that untapped market.  Computer users can access the same site by calling up prairiefare.com. on the world wide web, and do their shopping at home.

The web site just recently went online, and the kiosk has only been open for two weeks. Yet farmers featured on the site have already heard from a variety of interested people, according to Audrey Arner.

Her hope is that the interest will manifest itself as an improved market for the produce of sustainable farms. If the market -is there, more farmers will adapt sustainable agricultural practices, she said.

It's the kind of change both Arner and Patrick Moore want to see. They are organizers for the Land Stewardship Project, which helped launch this venture.

The Land Stewardship Project helped bring the farmers together, and provided the equipment for developing the kiosk and web site.

The Moores invested their own funds and sweat equity into developing their coffee house in an empty, downtown store front. They are taking all of the financial risk of operating their own business.

"It's a crap shoot," admits Patrick.

He's an optimistic player, and for good reason. Along with a steady stream of local customers, Java River is attracting many visitors to Montevideo to its counter. "You'd. be surprised," said Mary, laughingly adding: "I'm afraid it's kind of a tourist place."

The out-of-town visitors are predictable. They come to sip espresso, or to sample house specialties named after local rivers.

They include the "Minnesota Mocha," a dark, mellow blend of cafe mocha with vanilla flavoring; and the "Pomme de Terre Plunge," a caffeine blast of regular brewed coffee with two "shots" of espresso.

Locals have their own motives for coming here, starting with the chance to discover coffee that comes in flavors beyond leaded and unleaded.

"Patrick calls himself a coffee counselor," quipped Mary, explaining that her husband usually walks the wide-eyed locals through their many beverage options.

Their drinks in hand and confidence restored, the locals are ready to eat. Most prefer the fresh, Italian sandwiches served right from the grill. For desert, there is ice cream or the surprisingly delightful "Smoothies" a blend of fruit puree, yogurt and shaved ice.

"It's a place to have a treat.   That's what people say' said Mary.

If this seems like an unusual way to start a revolution, consider the golden rule that Richard W. Sears lived by: Keep the customer happy.

Tom Cherveny

Willmar Tribune. September 1, 1998


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